Your electric motor has stopped responding and you need to replace it. Follow the step-by-step instructions in this tutorial. The motor is delivered with its mechanical reduction system. Don't try to separate these two elements, as you risk losing internal components that will be very difficult to reassemble without damaging the whole unit. For simplicity's sake, it will be necessary to remove all internal components from the cylinder.
4″ BTR wrench or head, Phillips screwdriver
If you wish to use a screwdriver, assemble two bit extensions to gain access to the BTR screws at fork level, without having to present the BTR head askew and risk damaging the screw recess.
Remove the 4 protective rubbers from the screws.
Unscrew and remove the 4 BTR screws.
Unhook the rear fork and remove it completely, passing it through the cable.
Remove the black shim.
Remove the 4 protective rubbers and unscrew the 4 BTR screws to remove the front panel.
Remove the front panel.
The worm screws can be accessed. Pull it out of the cylinder.
Do not lose the two ball bearings.
Don’t lose this link between the worm screws and the engine’s mechanical reduction system. It may end up on the worm screws or remain on the motor shaft. Expect him to fall on the next stage.
Push the motor towards the rear of the cylinder.
The motor will be hard to pull out. This is due to the presence of rubber blades which help to keep it stable in the cylinder. If necessary, use a screwdriver to help you push it out.
Once the motor is sufficiently extended, remove the lower black plastic cover, taking care to raise the motor cables to allow it to pass through.
You can then pull from the motor head to continue removing the motor.
The motor is out.
To avoid losing them, before replacing the motor, remove the 4 rubber plates from the motor mount.
Unscrew and remove the 4 small Phillips screws.
Separate the electric motor from its support.
You can scrap the electric motor and use the new one from the next step.
Replace the new motor on the bracket. Make sure that the motor wire (arrow red) is on the bottom right-hand side during final reassembly.
Check its position in relation to the locations of the rubber blades (arrow green) which will be located on the sides of the motor.
Then tighten the screws to connect the bracket to the motor.
Replace the rubber blades on the motor mount.
Press the rubber blades firmly into the cylinder frame, and push it inwards
(No effect other than aesthetic) Be sure to identify the direction of the cylinder before inserting the motor. It must be opposite the “Avidsen” marking on the cylinder.
Push the motor flush with the cylinder frame.
Replace the bottom cover, taking care to raise the motor cable to allow it to pass through.
Reposition the black shim.
Push the shim flush with the cylinder frame.
Pass the motor fork back through the cable.
Screw it back onto the motor housing and replace the rubber covers.
Hold the cable gasket securely on the fork to prevent it coming out when refitting the fork.
Replace the link between worm screws and the electric motor on worm screws before carrying out the following operations.
Insert the worm screws into the cylinder and push it all the way to the motor.
The worm screws bearing must fit into the motor mount so that the link on the worm screws integrates the motor shaft.
Lightly push the worm screws and check that the bearing fits properly.
If the bearing does not retract, this means that the motor shaft is not in the same position as the worm screws.
Turn the worm screws slightly while pushing it inwards.
Before reinstalling the front panel, power the motor with a 9V or 12V battery, and check that the carriage runs smoothly when opening and closing.
Replace the front of the cylinder. Remember to place the notch towards the cart’s circulation hole on the worm screws.
Tighten the screws and replace the rubber covers.
Congratulations, you’ve replaced your electric jack motor and it’s ready to operate your gate leaves again.
