If you want to use a screwdriver; to access the BTR screws at the fork without having to present the BTR head crooked and risk damaging the screw recess, assemble two bit extensions together.

Remove the 4 protective rubbers from the screws.

Unscrew and remove the 4 BTR screws.

Unhook the rear fork and remove it completely through the cable.

Remove the black shim.

Remove the 4 protective rubbers and unscrew the 4 BTR screws to remove the front panel.

Remove the front panel.

You can access the worm gear. Pull it out of the cylinder.

Do not lose the two ball bearings.

Don’t lose this element that links the worm gear to the mechanical reduction system of the motor. It may end up on the worm gear or remain on the motor shaft. Expect it to fall on the next stage.

Push the motor towards the back of the cylinder.

The engine will be hard to get out. This is due to the presence of rubber blades that allow its good stability in the cylinder. If necessary, take a screwdriver to help you push it.

Once the motor has been extended enough, remove the black plastic bottom cover, making sure to raise the motor cables to pass it through.

You can then pull from the motor head to continue extraction of the motor.

The engine is out.

To avoid losing them, before starting the motor replacement, remove the 4 rubber plates from the motor mount.

Unscrew and remove the 4 small Phillips screws.

Separate the electric motor from its mount.

You can scrap the electric motor and use the new one from the next step.

Reposition the new motor on the bracket. Be careful to put the motor back in, making sure that its electrical wire (red arrow) is on the bottom right during the final ascent.

Check its position in relation to the locations of the rubber blades (green arrow) that will be on the side of the motor.

Then tighten the screws to connect the bracket to the motor.

Replace the rubber blades on the motor mount.

Press the rubber blades firmly into the frame of the cylinder and push it inwards

(No impact other than aesthetic) Be sure to mark the direction of the cylinder before running the motor. This one must be opposite the “Avidsen” inscription on the cylinder

Push the motor flush with the cylinder frame.

Replace the bottom cover, making sure to raise the motor cable to pass it through.

Reposition the black shim.

Push the shim flush with the cylinder frame.

Pass the motor fork back through the cable.

Screw it back onto the motor housing and replace the rubber covers.

Hold the cable seal on the fork to prevent it from coming out when you put the fork back in place

Replace the link between the auger and the electric motor on the auger before doing the following

Insert the auger into the cylinder and push it to the motor.

The worm bearing must fit into the motor mount so that the link on the worm integrates with the motor shaft.

Push the worm slightly and see if the bearing fits.

If the bearing does not retract, it means that the motor shaft is not in the same position as the worm.

Turn the auger slightly while pushing it inward slightly

Before finalizing the re-installation of the front panel, power the motor with a 9V battery or a 12V battery, and check that the carriage moves well in opening and closing.

Replace the front of the cylinder. Remember to put the notch towards the circulation hole of the worm carriage.

Screw the screws back in and replace the rubber covers.

Congratulations, you have replaced your electric motor on your jack and it is ready to operate your gate leaves again.